Got to sleep in a bit – the haze of smoke and fog machine a distant memory down the shower drain. Peter had a simple breakfast for us downstairs – scrambled eggs and toast! Just enough to take off the pangs of morning hunger!
Only enough time this morning to pack up our stuff and get ready to go. The original plan was to take the bus back to Lovech and then head out to the country tomorrow, where Villy’s Aunt and Uncle have a place – the same place where her Uncle was born as a matter of fact. But – Pando has kindly volunteered to take us back to Lovech rather than have us take the bus. We are meeting up with the Entourage at the other – swankier hotel – for a good-bye coffee (or diet cola in our case) before we head out. We have a small problem though – Peter’s credit card machine is not working and we are out of local currency! Trying to oblige us – he attempts the credit card machine anyway and it rejects every card we give him – apparently it will only work with European issued cards. Problem solved though – a quick trip to the local ATM (God bless the Cirrus network) and a $6.00 international banking fee later, we have settled up with Peter and an on our way back to Lovech.
On our way back Pando decided to take a detour and show us some sites – an old town that was originally home to Napoleon at one point in history. There – we did some shopping for the kids as well as Lisa before striking out to another ‘special’ place for lunch.
This restaurant was more of a themed restaurant – with a small zoo of local animals (donkey, goats, chickens and other assorted small animals), a rope swing, hammock among a grove of table in an outdoor setting. All very quaint and picturesque as well as touristy. They were there by the busloads – large German looking people with their shorts pulled up to their navels and their belts pulled too tightly – black socks with open toed sandals hid what I am sure were corn infested toes. Plump red cheeks and sun burned noses – it was like a bus of bald and un shaven Santa Clauses had wandered into the country. But – it was certainly fun to even see a country like Bulgaria have it’s equivalent tourist traps as we do in America.
After lunch – we struck out back to our apartment for a quick shower and a short rest before heading back out to our restaurant downtown with Villy’s family. Tonight – for us – it was alcohol free! For me – it was Shopska Salad free! The rest of the food – has it has been throughout the entire trip was delicious and we ate to our hearts content! This is the same restaurant in which Mimi knows the singer and the pianist – so with a little encouragement – we were able to get Mimi to do a number for us (all caught on Taper I might add – soon to be on YouTube!).
It was a nice, relaxing evening that ended with a quick cab ride back home for a good sleep in before heading out to the country tomorrow!
Showing posts with label dinner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dinner. Show all posts
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Bulgaria - Day 5: Sevlievo – Pando’s the Man!
The day, to begin with, was beautiful! Perfect weather – not too hot – yet not too cool! The sky was a perfect blue with just enough clouds to occasionally hide the sun to provide some relief.
We started the day by packing for a short two day trip to go visit some schoolmates of Villy and to go horseback riding in the mountains – yes – horseback riding in the mountains! A short 45 minute bus ride to Sevlievo (for which we had to get the perfect pastry – according to Villy - from a local vendor at the bus terminal – which I must admit was very good) – and we arrived at the town square – greeting by Villy’s schoolmate Pando.
Pando is a large hulking sort of guy – the kind if you ran into a darkened alley you might steer clear of. But as he greets you – you immediately realize this man is the salt of the earth! His eyes are full of gentle kindness and his nature is a perfect match. He greets us warmly and helps us load our bags into his mini van for transport into town.
The town is very small – but not as small as say a Mayberry! Villy likes to tell us that you can get anywhere in town for $1 lv by taxi and as it turns out she is pretty right on! The main square is just that – a square that is surrounded by shops and small cafĂ©’s. There are two or three hotels in the town and we stay at the smallest. Lisa’s father had been there last year and struck up a friendship with the owner. Unfortunately he is away by the sea on holiday but the owner’s son – Peter – (Jr) – is more than friendly and happy to accommodate the visiting Americans. In fact – he seems to bend over backwards to make certain all of our needs are meant – including having breakfast available for us both mornings (something I noted none of the other guests seemed to get!).
The hotel itself was very lovely – 6 rooms only – each room air conditioned and very tastefully decorated. We are also very excited to find that it has a very good wireless connection (a fact that Peter shares with us in broken English – “You like my wireless connection? I just installed!” he claimed with a huge grin.) – so we had a great opportunity to catch up with the kids at home through Skype.
After settling in – we had just enough time to take a quick nap in the nice cool rooms before heading out to meet Villy and her school mates a local restaurant called Chuchura.
What do you know? The cab ride was $1 lv!
We arrived at Chuchura at 8:00 PM as pre-planned. A very cool restaurant with a terrific outdoor garden (most restaurants have these here) – if you were to picture an Italian villa from the movie the Godfather – this would be it! I do see a lot of Italian influences in not only the local architecture but in the way a lot of buildings and interiors are decorated as well. There also seems to be a lot of Greek influence as well – especially in the Cuisine and the music.
Villy and her Entourage arrived classically late around 8:30 – somehow we had crossed the lines of communication and they had waited for us at the hotel – it was only after 15 minutes did Peter step outside to let them know that we had left at 7:50! I have a feeling that they may have been late in either case – we Americans obsess compulsively on schedules and promptness – it seems in this country the only a schedule is used for is to tell you ABOUT what time things should happen! I kind of like it that way! We’ll eat about 8 – we’ll finish about Midnight – we’ll have a nightcap about 2 – we’ll get to bed about 4. That’s been schedule!
Back to dinner – Villy arrivers with her Entourage in tow: Pando, his wife Dari and their son Evo, Villy’s best friend Matza and her nephew – all are very kind, warm and very welcoming to us.
Dari is a bit shorter than Pando – with short dark hair, dark eyes and a smile that lights up the darkest room. Matza is just a bit taller than Villy – with shoulder length golden hair, brown eyes and a calm relaxed beauty. Both boys are very handsome young men; Ivo, the darker haired boy is a bit more rugged like his Dad and has a mischief glint to his eyes! Matza's nephew is a bit lighter – blond hair and long lashes portend lady killer for this young man! Later in the evening Matza’s son, a ballroom dancer at age 15, stops by to greet everyone – he is, in fact, a lady killer and looks all of 20 something rather than 15!
By this point – Pando – being a local businessman and knowing the owner of the restaurant – has ordered us a variety of food to sample as well as drinks. I am still steering clear of Rakia and have now settled in on a new drink of choice: Gin and Fanta Lemon. Mmmmm! Point of note here – they bring you your shout of Gin in a separate glass along with the bottle of Fanta – the Gin is actually about three or four shots deep! This is going to be a long night!
Many plates of food later (I have no idea what I ate – I know it was chicken – I know there was some pork in there – and we definitely had Shopska Salad) – and perhaps four or five Fanta and Gins later – we began to dance the Horo (and other slow dances). However – being and outdoor restaurant – in a residential neighborhood – they have to stop playing the music at 11:00 PM – which angered Villy to no end!
Thank goodness for the resourcefulness of Pando though who found us a disco not too far from the restaurant. The funny thing – at this point – it was after midnight and we took the kids there with us. So here we were – a group of drinking adults with three kids in tow at a Disco! And no one batted an eye!
Not a large Disco – more of a bar by our standard – with black lights and very loud music! We sat at a table and ordered our first round – Fanta Lemon and Gin! But Pando went in heavy – 5 shots of Tequila! All lined up like little Bulgarian soldiers! He proceeded to salute all l5 and then ordered a second and then 3rd round – with a beer chaser in the middle! By the end of the evening – at least two more hours later – the man was still walking! In a straight line!
These people sure know how to party!
We started the day by packing for a short two day trip to go visit some schoolmates of Villy and to go horseback riding in the mountains – yes – horseback riding in the mountains! A short 45 minute bus ride to Sevlievo (for which we had to get the perfect pastry – according to Villy - from a local vendor at the bus terminal – which I must admit was very good) – and we arrived at the town square – greeting by Villy’s schoolmate Pando.
Pando is a large hulking sort of guy – the kind if you ran into a darkened alley you might steer clear of. But as he greets you – you immediately realize this man is the salt of the earth! His eyes are full of gentle kindness and his nature is a perfect match. He greets us warmly and helps us load our bags into his mini van for transport into town.
The town is very small – but not as small as say a Mayberry! Villy likes to tell us that you can get anywhere in town for $1 lv by taxi and as it turns out she is pretty right on! The main square is just that – a square that is surrounded by shops and small cafĂ©’s. There are two or three hotels in the town and we stay at the smallest. Lisa’s father had been there last year and struck up a friendship with the owner. Unfortunately he is away by the sea on holiday but the owner’s son – Peter – (Jr) – is more than friendly and happy to accommodate the visiting Americans. In fact – he seems to bend over backwards to make certain all of our needs are meant – including having breakfast available for us both mornings (something I noted none of the other guests seemed to get!).
The hotel itself was very lovely – 6 rooms only – each room air conditioned and very tastefully decorated. We are also very excited to find that it has a very good wireless connection (a fact that Peter shares with us in broken English – “You like my wireless connection? I just installed!” he claimed with a huge grin.) – so we had a great opportunity to catch up with the kids at home through Skype.
After settling in – we had just enough time to take a quick nap in the nice cool rooms before heading out to meet Villy and her school mates a local restaurant called Chuchura.
What do you know? The cab ride was $1 lv!
We arrived at Chuchura at 8:00 PM as pre-planned. A very cool restaurant with a terrific outdoor garden (most restaurants have these here) – if you were to picture an Italian villa from the movie the Godfather – this would be it! I do see a lot of Italian influences in not only the local architecture but in the way a lot of buildings and interiors are decorated as well. There also seems to be a lot of Greek influence as well – especially in the Cuisine and the music.
Villy and her Entourage arrived classically late around 8:30 – somehow we had crossed the lines of communication and they had waited for us at the hotel – it was only after 15 minutes did Peter step outside to let them know that we had left at 7:50! I have a feeling that they may have been late in either case – we Americans obsess compulsively on schedules and promptness – it seems in this country the only a schedule is used for is to tell you ABOUT what time things should happen! I kind of like it that way! We’ll eat about 8 – we’ll finish about Midnight – we’ll have a nightcap about 2 – we’ll get to bed about 4. That’s been schedule!
Back to dinner – Villy arrivers with her Entourage in tow: Pando, his wife Dari and their son Evo, Villy’s best friend Matza and her nephew – all are very kind, warm and very welcoming to us.
Dari is a bit shorter than Pando – with short dark hair, dark eyes and a smile that lights up the darkest room. Matza is just a bit taller than Villy – with shoulder length golden hair, brown eyes and a calm relaxed beauty. Both boys are very handsome young men; Ivo, the darker haired boy is a bit more rugged like his Dad and has a mischief glint to his eyes! Matza's nephew is a bit lighter – blond hair and long lashes portend lady killer for this young man! Later in the evening Matza’s son, a ballroom dancer at age 15, stops by to greet everyone – he is, in fact, a lady killer and looks all of 20 something rather than 15!
By this point – Pando – being a local businessman and knowing the owner of the restaurant – has ordered us a variety of food to sample as well as drinks. I am still steering clear of Rakia and have now settled in on a new drink of choice: Gin and Fanta Lemon. Mmmmm! Point of note here – they bring you your shout of Gin in a separate glass along with the bottle of Fanta – the Gin is actually about three or four shots deep! This is going to be a long night!
Many plates of food later (I have no idea what I ate – I know it was chicken – I know there was some pork in there – and we definitely had Shopska Salad) – and perhaps four or five Fanta and Gins later – we began to dance the Horo (and other slow dances). However – being and outdoor restaurant – in a residential neighborhood – they have to stop playing the music at 11:00 PM – which angered Villy to no end!
Thank goodness for the resourcefulness of Pando though who found us a disco not too far from the restaurant. The funny thing – at this point – it was after midnight and we took the kids there with us. So here we were – a group of drinking adults with three kids in tow at a Disco! And no one batted an eye!
Not a large Disco – more of a bar by our standard – with black lights and very loud music! We sat at a table and ordered our first round – Fanta Lemon and Gin! But Pando went in heavy – 5 shots of Tequila! All lined up like little Bulgarian soldiers! He proceeded to salute all l5 and then ordered a second and then 3rd round – with a beer chaser in the middle! By the end of the evening – at least two more hours later – the man was still walking! In a straight line!
These people sure know how to party!
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Bulgaria - Day 3: Lovech - Did I drink THAT much?
We awake the next morning – fairly early – to partake in the complimentary breakfast before heading out on the 2 hour drive to Lovech- our ultimate destination and base of operations for the next several days. We meet Villy and Tony in the hall - who have slept well and head downstairs to a wonderful breakfast buffet. Fruits, a few meats, scrambled eggs a couple of pastries and cereals what seemed like Tang (not orange juice at least) and a couple of power bars later we were on our way! Over all not a bad experience!
The trip to Lovech was very eventful - the ride there is through open countryside - lots of rolling hills just touching the mountainsides - green pastures - small villages - about a 2 hour trip overall. With the exception of Tony (thankfully) we all dozed here and there.
Upon arriving in Lovech - our first order of business was to get settled in at the apartment we were staying at - which was across the street from Villy’s Aunt and Uncle. Specifically - it was Villy’s Aunt Ivanichka’s father’s apartment that we would be staying at. A spry 85year old that stayed in the kitchen the whole time we were there - even to sleep - apparently he had a bed in there! Lisa and I got our own room and Lisa’s father moved into a room. Once settled - we headed over to Aunt and Uncles to meet the family and start the festivities of welcoming the Americans!
By this time - it was already later in the afternoon - Aunt and Uncle were standing in the doorway as we are exiting the elevator (they live on the ninth floor) - oh yes - these apartments are throw backs from the old days - when the Communist still had control of the country - they are very small and all look alike - think of the old project systems in any American city and you will have a good picture of these apartment building. Since the Communist have left - the ownership of these apartments has been turned over to the occupants and they have really turned them into beautiful homes! Right out of Home and Garden Magazine!
We enter the home and Auntie immediately sweeps Lisa’s father up into her arms welcoming him back into her home - she reminds me a lot of my own Aunt Marge back home - kind, warm hearted - always smiling and welcoming - bright eyes and a HUGE heart. Her blond hair is fashionably spiked up and she is rattling off Bulgarian a mile a minute as if we can understand every word of it! Uncle is standing in the background and the best way to describe him is Tony Bennett - if you had to picture anyone - that is who you would picture!
The room is chaos as people I have never meant sweep me into their arms and kiss me. Hugging me close and praising me with Bulgarian platitudes! We are introduced to Auntie and Uncle (Tony Bennett) as well as Cousin Mimi and her son Hristo (whom I have found has taken a long distance liking to my daughter!) as well as Tony’s wife Ivanichka and their young son Donny. And then there was Nora – Villy’s 8 year old daughter! Blue eyed and blond haired – she is a shy little girl who is sitting quietly in the corner of the kitchen table. Lisa and I have purchased a few special gifts for her and they are sequestered in my backpack which I have next to me. Lisa and I slide into the table next to Nora who looks up, smiling shyly. I give her a gentle tickle and reach into my pack and produce a small pack of Neon Markers along with a Butterfly cut out to color with it. Her smile brightens! We then produce a package of glow sticks – the kind you can make into bracelets! She begins to giggle a little! We then produce a pair of bubble gum color sandals along with a mini metal lunch box filled with sour candies – she opens the candies and proceeds to share them with the table! How cute is that!
And – oh the table! Laden with food and glasses – every spot – for the moment is filled with a setting of Shopska Salad! Everyone has a glass and a shot glass and that is where the trouble begins!
Uncle (Tony Bennett) – pulls a bottle from the freezer – in it is a home made alcohol called – Rakia. Imagine if you will drinking jet airliner fluid – just without the flavor. It is actually very good – in its frozen state (well – it actually does not freeze) – I would be willing to bet that in most of the world this drink is illegal. Uncle proceeds to pour a shot (in a glass size that is actually two shots) into everyone’s glass, include young Hristo’s) – he proceeds to toast the American guest – a toast the Villy must translate (the first of many she must translate for the night) – this first round consumes less than 1/8 of the bottle. I feel that first drink.
I don’t know what time it is – because time no longer exists at this point in the evening. Time is measured by the dead soldiers that are the empty Rika bottles – by this time we have killed four bottles and we are working on our fifth. I do recall several toasts and several shots taken all at once – something I think was not taken likely. At some point – a plate of food was put in front of me – it was delicious – I do remember that. I think it was pork and I think it had cheese – mushrooms and something else on it. I do remember young Hristo having several platefuls – that kid is a machine!
I think I drank some beer too – it was good – but the Rakia was better!
We moved to the front room – of this I am sure – to give away the gifts we bought with us. I don’t recall when – I know we did because when I walked into the front room – Villy was buried under a pile of clothing on the couch and Lisa and her father were tossing more on her. Tony Bennett was crooning to me from the kitchen – plying me with more Rakia – the siren call of alcohol! Uncle had received all purpose tool and it befell upon to explain it to him. I ripped it from its package – toasted it with Rakia and make a carving motion with the saw portion – “Da!” shouted Uncle!
From the front room we heard shouts so we navigated our way back there – the Rakia exhausted anyway – Lisa and her father had discovered a trophy they had made for a basketball tournament they had last year – the girls won apparently and they wanted to present it. Mimi, however, was not present and she needed to be. Where was Mimi? Why in bed!
Young Hristo and I took it upon us to go wake her – we barged into her room and began to shake her violently – something I assure you she was not pleased with! I do believe I was cursed at in Bulgarian!
With Mimi snuggly in bed – Lisa and her Dad presented the trophy to the clothing laden Villy nonetheless. And as we realized that it was already 3:00 AM – we finally decided that it was time to call it an evening! So – after saying our Rakia laced good-byes – we headed out the door – but rather than head to the elevator as we should have done – we headed down the stairs – forgetting that we were on the 9th floor! Hell – it wasn’t until the 5th floor that Lisa’s father exclaimed: “where the hell is the front door?” – choosing to forget the elevator and continue to take the stairs.
Thank God our building was barely a half block away!
The trip to Lovech was very eventful - the ride there is through open countryside - lots of rolling hills just touching the mountainsides - green pastures - small villages - about a 2 hour trip overall. With the exception of Tony (thankfully) we all dozed here and there.
Upon arriving in Lovech - our first order of business was to get settled in at the apartment we were staying at - which was across the street from Villy’s Aunt and Uncle. Specifically - it was Villy’s Aunt Ivanichka’s father’s apartment that we would be staying at. A spry 85year old that stayed in the kitchen the whole time we were there - even to sleep - apparently he had a bed in there! Lisa and I got our own room and Lisa’s father moved into a room. Once settled - we headed over to Aunt and Uncles to meet the family and start the festivities of welcoming the Americans!
By this time - it was already later in the afternoon - Aunt and Uncle were standing in the doorway as we are exiting the elevator (they live on the ninth floor) - oh yes - these apartments are throw backs from the old days - when the Communist still had control of the country - they are very small and all look alike - think of the old project systems in any American city and you will have a good picture of these apartment building. Since the Communist have left - the ownership of these apartments has been turned over to the occupants and they have really turned them into beautiful homes! Right out of Home and Garden Magazine!
We enter the home and Auntie immediately sweeps Lisa’s father up into her arms welcoming him back into her home - she reminds me a lot of my own Aunt Marge back home - kind, warm hearted - always smiling and welcoming - bright eyes and a HUGE heart. Her blond hair is fashionably spiked up and she is rattling off Bulgarian a mile a minute as if we can understand every word of it! Uncle is standing in the background and the best way to describe him is Tony Bennett - if you had to picture anyone - that is who you would picture!
The room is chaos as people I have never meant sweep me into their arms and kiss me. Hugging me close and praising me with Bulgarian platitudes! We are introduced to Auntie and Uncle (Tony Bennett) as well as Cousin Mimi and her son Hristo (whom I have found has taken a long distance liking to my daughter!) as well as Tony’s wife Ivanichka and their young son Donny. And then there was Nora – Villy’s 8 year old daughter! Blue eyed and blond haired – she is a shy little girl who is sitting quietly in the corner of the kitchen table. Lisa and I have purchased a few special gifts for her and they are sequestered in my backpack which I have next to me. Lisa and I slide into the table next to Nora who looks up, smiling shyly. I give her a gentle tickle and reach into my pack and produce a small pack of Neon Markers along with a Butterfly cut out to color with it. Her smile brightens! We then produce a package of glow sticks – the kind you can make into bracelets! She begins to giggle a little! We then produce a pair of bubble gum color sandals along with a mini metal lunch box filled with sour candies – she opens the candies and proceeds to share them with the table! How cute is that!
And – oh the table! Laden with food and glasses – every spot – for the moment is filled with a setting of Shopska Salad! Everyone has a glass and a shot glass and that is where the trouble begins!
Uncle (Tony Bennett) – pulls a bottle from the freezer – in it is a home made alcohol called – Rakia. Imagine if you will drinking jet airliner fluid – just without the flavor. It is actually very good – in its frozen state (well – it actually does not freeze) – I would be willing to bet that in most of the world this drink is illegal. Uncle proceeds to pour a shot (in a glass size that is actually two shots) into everyone’s glass, include young Hristo’s) – he proceeds to toast the American guest – a toast the Villy must translate (the first of many she must translate for the night) – this first round consumes less than 1/8 of the bottle. I feel that first drink.
I don’t know what time it is – because time no longer exists at this point in the evening. Time is measured by the dead soldiers that are the empty Rika bottles – by this time we have killed four bottles and we are working on our fifth. I do recall several toasts and several shots taken all at once – something I think was not taken likely. At some point – a plate of food was put in front of me – it was delicious – I do remember that. I think it was pork and I think it had cheese – mushrooms and something else on it. I do remember young Hristo having several platefuls – that kid is a machine!
I think I drank some beer too – it was good – but the Rakia was better!
We moved to the front room – of this I am sure – to give away the gifts we bought with us. I don’t recall when – I know we did because when I walked into the front room – Villy was buried under a pile of clothing on the couch and Lisa and her father were tossing more on her. Tony Bennett was crooning to me from the kitchen – plying me with more Rakia – the siren call of alcohol! Uncle had received all purpose tool and it befell upon to explain it to him. I ripped it from its package – toasted it with Rakia and make a carving motion with the saw portion – “Da!” shouted Uncle!
From the front room we heard shouts so we navigated our way back there – the Rakia exhausted anyway – Lisa and her father had discovered a trophy they had made for a basketball tournament they had last year – the girls won apparently and they wanted to present it. Mimi, however, was not present and she needed to be. Where was Mimi? Why in bed!
Young Hristo and I took it upon us to go wake her – we barged into her room and began to shake her violently – something I assure you she was not pleased with! I do believe I was cursed at in Bulgarian!
With Mimi snuggly in bed – Lisa and her Dad presented the trophy to the clothing laden Villy nonetheless. And as we realized that it was already 3:00 AM – we finally decided that it was time to call it an evening! So – after saying our Rakia laced good-byes – we headed out the door – but rather than head to the elevator as we should have done – we headed down the stairs – forgetting that we were on the 9th floor! Hell – it wasn’t until the 5th floor that Lisa’s father exclaimed: “where the hell is the front door?” – choosing to forget the elevator and continue to take the stairs.
Thank God our building was barely a half block away!
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